Now that this project is really starting to take shape, I thought I’d step back and appreciate what the interfacing is doing for the garment sections. First, the lapels on the notched collar, with pad stitches and twill tape bordering the roll line. The use of the twill tape has served beyond its primary role of keeping this area from stretching over time. It has kept me aware of where the roll is and eventually will help the lapels from going flat on the finished garment. I will be able to share what I am talking about later.
Second is the sleeve head roll. This one I had to draft on my own as there was no sleeve head roll pattern for the lining. The original pattern’s sleeve in View A is the huge mutton-sleeves popular in Edwardian fashion. The intent with this project is vintage-inspired, contemporary style so I opted for the alternative less leave using the lining pattern piece. Nora to the rescue instructed me to trace the top of the sleeve pattern piece, following the curves at 2 1/4″. The results were outstanding once I attached the sleeves and saw the big difference between this project and the previous ones where I left out a sleeve head, probably never again. I was very pleased with how easy it worked with the rest of the sleeve, especially shaping the cap.
Next up, props to Kenneth King’s Cool Couture book for introducing me to shoulder shields. I very rarely add shoulder pads to garments for myself. However, after reading about them, I decided to give them a try and voila, they will become a staple in my arsenal. Next time however, I will (hopefully) remember to add them to the canvas while I am attaching it to the flatlining and before the fashion fabric merge. At least with this rookie move, you can see how they are sitting in the shoulder-area.
Finally, it’s all about the collar. Now, I feel my life was changed when I first discovered what hymo interfacing does to a garment and I never looked back. While browsing through a supplier’s (BiasBespoke) Etsy site, I stumbled upon collar canvas. Hold up, this exists?! An impulse buy resulted in a yard arriving at my door and sitting in my closet since, waiting for a project to start carving it up. This was perfect! Here it is, in all its splendor, taking shape with my “heirloom” tailors ham (recognize this Mom?), a few pins and you guessed it, steam. It has held shape despite the inevitable wrestling moves garments go through during construction, at least in my workroom they do. So happy with the results, how easily the roll marks from the pattern helped determine just the right arc as you’ll see if you tune in next time….